Surrounded by skyscrapers, tech offices and sprawling avenues, Shenzhen can sometimes feel like a city with no past. But Nantou tells a very different story — one that many people would never imagine exists here.
Nearly 1,700 years of history and transformation can still be traced through its narrow streets, where an ancient fortress now sits alongside stylish cafés, creative studios and the everyday life of one of the city’s most fascinating neighbourhoods.
Today, I’m taking you through the transformations that shaped the Shenzhen we know today, as well as the must-see spots that make Nantou Ancient Town worth exploring.
Before Shenzhen, there was Nantou
More than 2,000 years ago, Nantou already possessed something that would eventually turn its geographical location into a source of power: the sea.
With mountains behind it and the coastline stretching out in front, its location was particularly well suited to producing salt from seawater. And Nantou grew around the administration of this thriving salt industry.
Under the Han Dynasty (110 BC), Nantou became part of the Chinese state’s administrative system. Then, in 331 AD, during the Jin Dynasty, the Dongguan Commandery was established here — a major administrative division that covered much of what is now southern Guangdong.
In 1394, during the Ming Dynasty, the walled city of Nantou was built as a military fortress to defend the coastline. The fortified town measured approximately 680 metres from east to west and 500 metres from north to south.
By the 16th century, Nantou had also become the seat of the newly established Xin’an County, whose territory included present-day Shenzhen as well as areas that are now part of Hong Kong.
In other words, long before Shenzhen existed as the modern metropolis we know today… Nantou had already been a political and territorial centre of this part of China for centuries.
From historic fortress to urban village
When Shenzhen was designated a Special Economic Zone in 1980, the city began attracting an ever-growing population and expanding at a breathtaking pace. You can read all about that transformation here.
It was during this period of rapid urbanisation that China’s so-called “urban villages” emerged: former rural villages that expanded rapidly to provide relatively affordable housing for workers and migrants.
Nantou was one of them, eventually becoming home to around 30,000 people within just one square kilometre. Its streets were narrow, and buildings were packed tightly together, with every possible inch of space put to use. They became known as “handshake buildings” because the buildings are so close together that they appear to be reaching out and shaking hands.
It was certainly a place built for practicality rather than beauty.
And yet Nantou had something unique: it was a historic town that had managed to survive right in the heart of a brand-new metropolis.
Preserve, demolish or transform Nantou Ancient Town?
By the beginning of the 21st century, Nantou was facing a major dilemma. Should it be preserved, or demolished to make way for something new?
In 2017, Nantou Old Town became the main venue for the Shenzhen edition of the Bi-City Biennale of Urbanism/Architecture (UABB). This marked an important turning point in the neighbourhood’s recent history.
The biennale did far more than simply bring an exhibition to Nantou. It transformed the area into a kind of urban laboratory, where hundreds of architects, artists and local residents carried out interventions across streets, buildings and former factories, looking for ways to revitalise the neighbourhood without erasing its identity.
The central idea was to improve and bring new life to existing spaces while preserving the traces of the past.
The official protection and renewal project began in 2019. The goal was not to rebuild Nantou from scratch or turn it into a historical theme park. But rather to improve its spaces while preserving its urban fabric and everyday life.
Little by little, this gave shape to the Nantou you can explore today. A place where once-underused spaces have been transformed into cafés, design shops, creative studios, galleries, bars and cultural venues.
A city of layers, not eras
In Nantou, there is no clear dividing line between “old” and “new”. And that is precisely what makes it so special.
Instead, different periods of history overlap:
- There is the former administration of Dongguan.
- There is the Ming Dynasty fortress.
- There is the residential architecture of the urban village.
- There are workshops and factories.
- And then there are the cafés and design shops.
That is why, as you walk through Nantou, you might find a historic gate, laundry hanging from a balcony, a specialty coffee shop, a residential block and an art gallery all on the same street. And towering above it all, in the distance, are Shenzhen’s skyscrapers.
What to see in Nantou Ancient Town
You only need two to four hours to explore Nantou Ancient Town at a leisurely pace.
Here are some of the highlights you shouldn’t miss:
- Enter through the South Gate, which has retained much of its historic appearance.
- Walk along the main street. You’ll probably want to pull out your phone and take a photo of almost every façade. The Starbucks façade, in particular, has become one of the area’s most photographed spots.
- Get lost in the narrow alleyways, where the famous “handshake buildings” are still standing.
- Step inside some of the historic buildings and get a glimpse of what Nantou looked like in another era. Highlights include the Old Xin’an Yamen, the Wen Family Ancestral Temple, the Dongguan Guild Hall (once a meeting place for merchants), and the Guandi Temple.
- Stop for a specialty coffee at one of Nantou’s beautiful cafés. Fair warning: choosing just one won’t be easy.
- Head to IF Factory. A former garment factory that has been given a new lease of life as a creative hub with offices, cafés and creative spaces. It also features a huge public staircase running vertically through the building. Leading up to a rooftop garden where visitors can read, meet up or simply take a break.
- Look up. From the narrow streets of Nantou, you can see Shenzhen’s skyscrapers rising in the background. A perfect reminder of just how dramatically this city has changed.
To explore Nantou and Shenzhen with a local and make your trip to China a truly unique experience… Don’t hesitate to get in touch with us!
